This Friday edition of Consider Yourself Cultured is brought to you by Doen.
I knew I was different the moment I saw The Wizard of Oz (1939) and felt terribly jealous that Dorothy got to wear those fantastic ruby slippers while I was stuck with Velcro sneakers. Sure, they lit up, but they didn’t shine like hers. Since I can remember, clothing has always been a part of my life. My earliest memories involve clothing in some capacity, from idolizing Dorothy’s shoes to watching my mother and grandmother perform the weekly ritual of getting dressed for church. These moments showed me the power a garment can have, so when I was discovering my queerness, it felt natural to start with experimenting with how I dressed.
I disregard the notions of what is considered “men’s” and “women’s” clothing. To me, it doesn’t matter who the garment was intended for; what’s important is whether it speaks to me. So when Doen asked me to style a few of their pieces and provide educational recommendations for Pride, I jumped at the opportunity. I would describe Doen’s clothes as romantic and nostalgic—pieces I grew up wanting to wear. Having the chance to wear them and proudly embrace what brings me joy truly shows the power of a good frock.
(Side note: I thought it would be help to put the sizes of the pieces I am wearing in the captions, let me know if you find that helpful.)
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fed22cd7b-6f5b-41ef-83c8-336ffa699cea_1179x2237.jpeg)
It’s all about the skirt
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3aab4895-9b70-414d-afa0-8a9cc009eb99_5712x4284.jpeg)
As soon as I moved to New York, I knew I would have free rein over my wardrobe. No longer would I be governed by some draconian rules dictating what I could or could not wear. So about a year after moving to the city, I dared to buy my first skirt—a vintage suede mini skirt. It was terribly stiff and too short for my liking, and I think I wore it out once or twice before I parted with it. Buying that skirt taught me that finding clothes that fit—not just literally, but also your style—is like the story of Goldilocks; you have to try a few things before you find what’s just right.
For me, the Sebastiane skirt is the ideal skirt, especially during the summer. Don’t get me wrong, I love my legs (I’d argue they’re one of my best assets, and I think Nick would agree, haha), but I prefer a longer, fuller skirt. It brings to mind the wonderful shapes from the 50s that I grew up wishing I could wear, and now, as a full-fledged adult, I can! I styled this skirt in a few ways, as you’ll notice. My first inspiration was a 90s Vogue spread where Christy Turlington is on holiday in Italy, wearing romantic dresses and separates that I imagine pay homage to Katharine Hepburn in Summertime (1955).
My recent summertime obsession are bateau necklines. I think they elongate the neck beautifully and are probably the best when it comes to showing off your necklaces. I’m wearing the striped version of the Paulette tee (aptly named Nantucket Stripe, I mean how perfect is that name?!?!), and it also comes in a gingham version that would be fantastic for your next barbecue or poetry club reading.
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F84d802b1-418c-4605-93b7-44705bf1de19_5712x4284.jpeg)
For a more laid-back option, I decided to pair the skirt with the Vivi tee in this gorgeous shade of lipstick red.
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4fcb3795-fc21-4f6b-a47b-9bff58929606_5712x4284.jpeg)
And if the night turns a bit chilly, you can easily throw on this Hava top. It's made from linen, and in my opinion, has the right amount of sheerness. This brings us to our next topic at hand... SHIRTING!!!!
Summer shirting
Longtime readers and followers know that I love a good shirt. There’s nothing better than getting a fresh shirt, especially for summer. When it comes to choosing your summer shirt, the big question is always: what fabric do you choose? Linen or cotton?
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdf63a58d-ffbd-4ece-a534-7d7502d88119_5712x4284.jpeg)
For the past few years, it feels like linen has been the fabric du jour. People often criticize it for its tendency to wrinkle at the slightest touch, but in a time when the world is in, um, interesting circumstances, I think we can collectively agree that a few wrinkles here and there are no big deal.
For the first iteration of this look, I basically kept all the elements from the previous one but swapped out the skirt for pants and replaced my beat-up sneakers with something a bit more refined—like these golden gladiator sandals that look as if they came straight off the set of Cleopatra (1963). I find this look to be effortlessly stylish and versatile. You could easily wear it to lunch, a meeting, or for midnight dancing and feel fantastic. The pop of red in the shirt adds depth to the outfit and complements the color and paisley print of the bandana beautifully.
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa0c5958b-fa9e-46db-8770-9fd9ad6acde2_5712x4284.jpeg)
Similar to the previous section, I chose to present the linen shirt in a more relaxed and effortless way. I particularly love the texture of the linen in this photo—it reminds me of the crispy look your shirt gets when it dries after being drenched.
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F85b1d153-e7cb-4b6f-9a35-d432af7ec889_5712x4284.jpeg)
Another great thing about shirts in the summer is that they make fantastic cover-ups, and speaking of which, this outfit is beach-ready. The Jora shirt dress is simply effortlessly in this crisp cotton from the Italian shirting mill Thomas Mason (this is also offered in a really delicious cotton poplin and linen). It was the first piece I grabbed when putting together these looks, and I think what initially caught my eye were the colors—there's a psychedelic quality to them that offers a fresh twist on the classic striped shirt. And, of course, no beach outing is complete without the right sandals and straw accoutrements. These Doen x K. Jacques t-strap sandals have hardly left my feet since they arrived in the mail. They have this sexy nonchalant charm that, as you can see throughout this letter, pairs seamlessly with just about anything.
In defense of the dresses over pants!
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe01af726-c965-4da6-a2f9-0124de6c4e71_5712x4284.jpeg)
If you read Sunday’s letter, you know that I endorse the look of a dress over pants. I had fully intended to wear the Sebastiane skirt over pants (or "skants," as
recently called them, haha), but time got the best of me. Nonetheless, as I mentioned in that letter, this look is by no means new. While it does carry some, well, let’s call it baggage, I believe there’s a way to refresh the style without feeling like a teen star on the red carpet circa 2004.The look above has a certain Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech during the 70s touch, with the tunic over straight yet loose pants. If the pants flared out, it would have made the outfit a complete mess. I wanted the pants to mimic the lines of the shirt dress—straight to the ground!
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3fbfe51e-fdc3-4218-8f81-fb634b78f7df_4284x5712.jpeg)
This version of the look is what I call "formal flower child." All that's really missing is a crown of flowers and fresh juniper berries dangling around my head like jewels. I love wearing black in the summer; I think it's one of the sexiest colors to wear during the season. Partly because I think everyone looks fantastic in black, and also because it feels a bit rebellious and sexy to wear during the warmer months compared to light, airy colors. Similar to the above look, I chose a pair of pants that matched the line of the dress—straight with minimal pooling.
Recommendations
Now, onto the recommendations I shared with Doen. I could have easily compiled a long list of must-watch, must-listen, and must-read items, but I decided to stick to the first five that came to mind. Let me know what you think. Have you read or heard of any of these pieces? If so, I'd love to hear your thoughts!
Frank Simon- The Queen (1968) A documentary that captures the 1967 Miss All-America Camp Beauty Pageant, showcasing the lives and performances of drag queens as they prepare for and participate in the competition. The film provides an intimate look into the drag subculture of the 1960s, and serves somewhat as the prequel to the 1990 documentary Paris is Burning.
Jennie Livingston- Paris is Burning (1990)- This documentary that delves into the vibrant ballroom culture of 1980s New York City, highlighting the lives of Black and Latinx queer folks who competed within the circuit.
Bruce Nugent- “Smoke, Lilies, and Jade” (1926)- A groundbreaking stream-of-consciousness story that follows Alex, a young Black artist, as he explores his sexual identity and romantic feelings for both a man named Beauty and a woman named Melva set during the Harlem Renaissance.
James Baldwin- Giovanni’s Room (1956)- Probably one of Baldwin's most recognizable works, Giovanni's Room follows David, an American man grappling with his sexuality, as he navigates a tumultuous relationship with Giovanni, an Italian bartender, in 1950s Paris.
Scene on Radio: S3E9: Be Like You (2018)- Scene on Radio is a podcast series that delves into big questions and seeks answers through history and personal stories. The third season explores the patriarchy, and this episode highlights Lewis Wallace's journey with transitioning and navigating the complexities of maleness and the constraints of a binary existence.
I may earn some commission if you make a purchase through one of the links above.
Follow me on Instagram here!
Shop my Dora Maar closet here!
I can't process anything about clothing since seeing that spotty wooden siding in the background. it appears to be the natural weathering of the paint but how wacky and wonderful!
love the 'dress over pants' look so much, the way you've executed it it resembles a fresh twist on a classic south Asian salwar kameez which is worn by both sexes in north India/Pakistan. It's an underrated hot-weather style! Also YSL looks like he's wearing some take on a Moroccan djellaba, or maybe an actual djellaba.
(I know Doen does a lot of manufacturing in India and the cutwork detail on the bodice looks very typical of what I would often see on women's tunics aka kurta/kameez, in Indian shops, 10/10 execution)