NYFW Day 1 & 2: Heavy the head that wears the honking big hat.
I recap the official start of NYFW as well as the following day!
Day 1
As the saying goes, "Go big or go home." With it being the official first day of both NYFW and fashion month, I knew I had to make a statement — so I chose my bold Esenshel hat. Although I usually dread planning outfits, being an out-of-towner now has forced me to think ahead. Did that stop me from overpacking? Absolutely not — haha!
When it comes to the shows I attend, I always try to wear something from the designer as a sign of respect. Since I was headed to the Area show, I knew I'd be wearing their structured blazer with shoulder pads sharp pop and eye out. As I mentioned in Friday’s newsletter, I’ve been feeling a lot of white lately and nautical looks, which I think has been also popping up on the runway. With that in mind, I opted for my white Matteau fisherman drawcord pants and a crisp white Uniqlo tee. For everyone asking how I survived the heat in yesterday’s look, I owe it all to the magic of that Uniqlo tee!
To balance out the white and black ensemble, I added touches of gold through my shoes and minaudière, which I’ve mentioned a few times before in the newsletter. And of course, I topped off the look with my HUGE Esenshel hat — which I found to be a crucial element in terms of maintaining proportion and avoiding that top-heavy look you sometimes get with a padded blazer.
My first event of the day was with COS, where I visited their newly opened store on 5th Ave. I have to credit
for really getting me into COS, as their collection offers fantastic foundational pieces that effortlessly integrate into any wardrobe. Though I didn’t have time to shop, after seeing recent post, I’ve got my eye on these barrel-leg sweats. They’ve also got some great tops that would be so fun to style — like this one and this one!My first show of the season was Maria McManus, and the opening look—a long khaki coat worn inside out—perfectly captured the essence of her collection. It conveyed McManus' signature philosophy: we should embrace clothes so beautifully crafted that they could be worn inside out with ease. The designer herself emphasized this sentiment as she briefly walked us through the inspiration behind the collection.
The collection featured handcrafted details, such as macramé accents, there was also and added sense of community to the pieces. During her presentation, McManus made a point to highlight the collaborators who helped bring the show to life, including Erin Pollard of Underwater Weaving and Morgan Lang of Agmes.
Area was my second show of the day, coinciding with the brand’s tenth anniversary. The collection immediately brought to mind Claude Montana with its sharp-shouldered blazers, officer hats, and distressed leather pieces, and Schiaparelli in attention to the hardware and style of the jewelry. Last season, the dominant motif was eyes, showcased in Polly Moffitt, mod-inspired looks. This season, however, took a darker turn, likely due to the fact that it was a fall collection and is already available for purchase.
My final show of the day was Grace Ling, a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nominee whose work you may recognize from celebrities like Kim Kardashian and J.Lo. Ling has a remarkable talent for innovative eveningwear, and it was refreshing to see a cast that celebrated diversity—not only in race but also in body size.
The brand also has a strong artistic and sculptural element. While the look above may not be produced, you can still embrace her sculptural designs through her accessories collection.
After the Grace Ling show, I had about five events happening simultaneously between 6PM and 8PM. Unfortunately, a few had to be cut, including a Moda Operandi party at Casa Cipriani that I was hoping to attend. The first event I managed to drop by was the Air Mail Newsstand on Hudson, which is a beautifully curated shop full of products regularly featured on their site (that’s how I discovered the brand Del Toro!). I was there to check out their latest collaboration with Chez Dede.
What I appreciate about Air Mail is their focus on serving a specific, discerning customer. This leads them to discover niche brands that fall into the "if you know, you know" category. Chez Dede, founded by designer Daria Reina and artist Andrea Ferolla, is renowned for their scarves, accessories, and illustrations.
This collaboration with Air Mail marks their second partnership, resulting in four silk scarves featuring charming sketches of Jean Cocteau, Christian Dior, Josephine Baker, and Maria Callas as children. The collection, aptly named "Enfant Terrible," is available for purchase both online and in-store.
After leaving the Air Mail Newsstand, I stopped by TheRealReal's "Fake" shop on Canal to watch them deconstruct a fake Hermès Birkin—a fascinating experience. Next, I headed over to check out Savette’s latest collection “The Florence”, and there was nothing fake about those bags or the impeccable setting at The Quarters. I also had the chance to preview a new Métier bag that left me speechless. It’s so stunning, my jaw literally dropped. While I can’t share the photo just yet, I will say this—quilted lambskin perfection. I wrapped up my day at the Don’t Let Disco x Nike beading bar at the WSA. Along the way, I picked up an interesting tip from Alexis Badiyi: if you want to wear tights with mules, just use a boob cover to keep your foot snugly in place!
Day 2
Yesterday, I knew I wanted to wear a mix of my favorite pieces: my Hermès plaid shirt, Polo Ralph Lauren sweater, Celine (from the Phoebe Philo era, RIP), and my newly beaded Nike Cortez. I wasn’t entirely sure if they'd all work together, but honestly, that wasn’t my main concern. The weather was unpredictable—starting off cool with light rain, followed by a downpour, then a wave of humidity, another downpour, and finally wrapping up with the same crisp, cool air. A clear sign that the seasons are changing!
My first show of the day was at 9 AM at the Public Hotel, where I got to see a new brand on the New York scene—Campillo, designed by Patricio Campillo. I wasn’t familiar with the brand at all, but after seeing the PR team post a single image of an incredible suit, I immediately DM’ed them to ask if I could attend. One of the first looks to catch my eye was an ombré sarong-style skirt, fastened low on the waist with a heavy, medallion-like button, paired with a sculptural top resembling the desert floor. The collection also featured embellished charro suits, which is where the brand has its roots, along with satin-like draped tops that seemed like a subtle nod to recent Saint Laurent shows, but done in a more approachable way.
After the Campillo show, I found a moment of respite at La Colombe with a former boss, picked up a rain poncho in place of an umbrella, and headed to the Jonathan Cohen SS25 presentation. The collection had a glam-punk edge that felt both fresh and daring—and thank goodness for some color! Although we've been seeing a lot of spring collections, it seems like neutral tones with pops of red are dominating the season. My favorite look was a stunning reimagining of eveningwear, which ties into my recent post on transitional dressing. I love the contrast between elegance and coziness, and perhaps instead of reaching for a coat for those early fall evening events, just throw on a cardigan!
After Jonathan Cohen, I had the opportunity to attend the Alaïa re-see at the Brant Foundation. Viewing the collection in person offered a much richer experience than seeing it on a screen, especially given the intricate nods to American sportswear and couture.
immediately called out how the cocoon jackets were a nod to Charles James’ designs. Another fascinating element of the collection is that it was created entirely without zippers or buttons, showcasing a seamless approach. The spiral motif found in several pieces also cleverly references the Guggenheim Museum’s iconic architecture.The new bag and shoe offerings were absolutely stunning, and I have a feeling this bag is going to give the Teckel a serious run for its money.
After Alaïa, I headed to Tibi, where the collection was full of reimagined essentials that could effortlessly add personality to any wardrobe. Think classic button-downs worn backwards and slightly oversized, low-slung belts, and easy evening throw-ons. This is also where the idea of harem pants really solidified for me. I first considered them at Alaïa, but Tibi and Khaite reinforced the idea. It was enough to make me immediately check the stock on those Christopher John Rogers harem pants I've had my eye on for several seasons—perhaps it’s finally time to pull the trigger.
After Tibi, I made my way to Tanner Fletcher, where 50s prom-inspired looks took center stage. Then, at Palomo Spain, the male nipple was boldly on display with contoured suiting, deliberately low-draped tank dresses, and sheer negligee-inspired gowns. The pieces were adorned with feathers, paillettes, crystals, or sometimes all three. I also made a quick stop at Nike to check out their collaboration with designers like Jane Wade, a CVFF finalist who will be showing later in the week.
I ended the night with a Campari spritz, rice balls, and Molly Sims in the new Khaite peep-toe shoes that I am absolutely dying to get my hands on.
See you all tomorrow!
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I'm an old guy with zero fashion sense, but I enjoy following your expeditions. 👍
Love this, thank you so much for sharing!