Consider Yourself A Shopper #40: The never ending week comes to an end
As well as the items I'm adding to my wishlists, inspired by what I saw during NYFW.
You can find my recap of the first few days of NYFW here! I will keep my review/ recap of the rest of the week to just two points.
Point 1
Throughout the week, the one show that stayed on my mind—and one I spoke about quite a bit with people—was Calvin Klein. By the end of the week, my thoughts on the collection shifted from the show itself to wondering who else had been considered for the role, particularly designers who I believe would have been far more compelling choices.
Daniella Kallmeyer of Kallmeyer was the first name that came to mind. She creates minimal clothing with an edge—pieces that feel alive. Her show, set inside Bortolami Gallery, unfolded like an intimate portrait of women simply moving through their lives. Models wove through wisps of fabric, their clothing more fitted than the oversized silhouettes that have come to dominate the minimalist space and there was of course a nice bit of tailoring which Kallmeyer is known for. There was an intentional dishevelment to the hair—like they had just rushed out of somewhere, maybe from a one-night stand, maybe from a late night out—but either way, they had somewhere to be, and quickly. And then came the moment that sealed it: Sarita Choudhury sauntering in, wearing a fitted leather coat. As she walked she also slowly peeled off her gloves and clutched them in her hands, which resulted in a few “whoos” of excitement. As she turned the corner, a glint of tights caught my eye, and suddenly, it clicked—there was nothing underneath the coat but those tights. And all I could think was: Why wasn’t this at Calvin?
The other name that came to mind—someone who, I believe, would have approached the brand in a way reminiscent of Raf Simons, without feeling beholden to its history—was Rachel Scott of Diotima. New York is lucky to have her. Her work feels fresh, exciting, and season after season, she expands her design vocabulary by introducing new fabrications with precision and purpose. It’s no surprise that Henry Zankov’s collection was equally strong—joyful, sensual, a little bit naughty. Knowing that he and Rachel are friends, I can only imagine how they push and inspire each other, making them both better designers
Ultimately, Calvin Klein was a big swing and a miss. And while designers like Daniella and Rachel don’t need the validation of a legacy house to prove their worth, if the industry truly craves originality, then more chances need to be taken on brands like these—because the talent is right here in New York, waiting.
Point 2
Another major takeaway from the week: Tory Burch was AMAZING. The collection was incredible, but so was the soundtrack—which featured a little Donna Summer and a song that instantly made me think of a hot night in Italy circa 1984.(Who’s doing the music for Tory? Last season, they played only one song, and I became so obsessed with it that I listened to it nonstop for weeks.) This was yet another meditation on American sportswear, this time with a focus on twisted essentials—a fitting theme in a country that often feels equally twisted, at times even dystopian.
Thom Browne closed out NYFW with a collection that was not only highly wearable (though, of course, there were doll-like creations that instantly brought to mind Marc Jacobs’ recent show, reinforcing my thoughts from Sunday about clothing that alters the body), but also centered around a singular motif: birds. The show opened in a dimly lit room, the spotlight fixed on a desk scattered with origami birds. As the show began, two models walked out, eventually making their way to the desk, folding more origami birds throughout the presentation. Birds are an intriguing symbol. Lately, they’ve been the subject of much anxiety due to the spread of bird flu. But beyond that, my immediate association is, of course, flight or in some cases escape.
Fashion shows are a fascinating phenomena. I often think that the runway doesn’t function as a direct mirror to reality, but rather as something closer to a kaleidoscope—or, in some cases, a funhouse mirror or maybe even a crystal ball. There’s no question that designers absorb the world around them, and their collections inevitably reflect that. It’s also easy to impose current events onto a collection, even when that wasn’t the designer’s intent. Think of the Balenciaga FW22 show, which, unfortunately, coincided with the outbreak of the Russia-Ukraine war. That collection was designed long before the invasion, but once the show happened, it was impossible to see anything but war in those images.
So I wonder: What will someone see in these collections twenty years from now? Will they look at Balenciaga’s snow globe and still see war, or just models trudging through artificial snow in expensive clothes? What will they see in Thom Browne’s birds? A designer longing for peace? A reflection of our collective desire to escape? Or simply beautiful tweed suiting speckled with intarsia and crystals? Only time will tell. But in the moment, it was the perfect way to close out the week—a show that, above all else, felt hopeful.
Things that are in my home, on my wishlist, or simply on my mind.
As I’ve said time and time again, the beauty—and slight curse—of today’s runway shows is that you no longer have to wait five or six months to get the look. In many cases, you can recreate an outfit from head to toe with pieces already in your closet, in stores or found secondhand. But beyond that, the shows have a way of unlocking new desires, adding unexpected items to your wishlist. I walked away from several shows with a few new things to consider.
If you read Sunday’s newsletter, you’ll know that Altuzarra was a standout for me—and it looks like he’s truly having fun. Fingers crossed they produce at least one of those hats! But beyond the hats, the collection was filled with stunning dresses. Fortunately, Doen’s first spring drop has arrived, offering a few pieces to satisfy that Altuzarra craving until August. I just picked up this lace skirt, which feels like a bold choice for me, but I love the idea of pairing it with a structured jacket and strappy sandals. There’s also this crochet tea dress and a mod-style suede jacket that caught my eye.
Beams Plus teamed up with Sperry and Quaker Marine for a collaboration, and they’re hosting a pop-up on Mulberry Street, right next to the Noah store. (I may have impulsively picked up this anorak while I was there.) For the collab, Beams Plus reimagined Sperry’s CVO deck shoe—my personal favorite—swapping the usual canvas for heavy-duty nylon in three colors: white, bright red-orange, and navy. They also replaced the traditional laces with rope, giving the shoe a fresh, utilitarian feel. As for Quaker Marine, Beams Plus reworked their popular Swordfish hat in six different styles, some featuring the same nylon used on the shoes. The collection also includes a range of apparel that seamlessly blends Beams Plus’ signature aesthetic with classic maritime influences.
After checking out the Beams Plus x Sperry collection, I popped into Noah next door to preview their Spring collection—and it, too, had a strong nautical influence. It truly seems the sea is on everyone’s mind. Beyond the maritime theme, there were interesting nods to baseball and vintage uniforms, like a pair of baseball pants that have quickly climbed to the top of my wishlist. The collection also featured updates to classic staples—a polo cut slightly boxier, pleated chino shorts with a wider fit (which, I was told, were actually modeled after a pair of women’s shorts), and some great suiting options. There was a crisp seersucker suit (which feels like a rarity these days, but has been on my mind) and a merino wool and silk-blend blazer that will be perfect for transitioning into warmer weather.
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