How I spent my birthday

Bopping around Martha's Vineyard and a day trip to East Hampton

This Sunday edition of Consider Yourself Cultured is brought to you by Banana Republic

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Last week, Nick and I traveled to Martha’s Vineyard to celebrate my birthday. Longtime readers will know that my summer vacations usually involve a trip to the Cape. That tradition only started about five or six years ago when Nick and I began dating. Nick, who’s from Massachusetts, has of course been going to the Cape since he was a kid, but neither of us had ever made our way over to the Vineyard. My first introduction to the island was, naturally, through Jacqueline Onassis, who bought a few hundred acres in Aquinnah back in 1979 and built what became known as Red Gate Farm. And I also became more interested and fascinated with the island through the book The Wedding by Dorothy West (which was actually edited by Jackie), which is set in the 1950s and about the engagement of Black girl from a well-off family becoming engaged to a white musician and the impact it has not only on her family but also the community.

When it comes to birthdays, I’m never totally sure how to feel about them. They’re exciting, joyful even, and mark a shift, but there’s also something a little sobering about completing another trip around the sun. Did I do everything I set out to do? What were the wins, what were the misses? More than anything, I think birthdays are about setting intentions for the year ahead. So back in March, I decided to plan a trip to an island I’ve wanted to visit for years. One of the things I’m prioritizing this year is travel, but I’m also trying to be more intentional about putting myself first. That doesn’t feel selfish to me. If anything, it feels necessary. How are we supposed to be fully present for others if we’re constantly giving away pieces of ourselves?

What I packed and how I wore it:

• 1 pair of swim trunks, 1 pair of swim briefs

• 1 blazer

• 2 pairs of shorts, 1 drawstring chino, 1 pair of pull-on pants

• 2 shirts (1 linen, 1 silk)

• 2 sweaters

• 1 sweatshirt

• 3 t-shirts

• 6 pairs of shoes (heeled sandals, 2 pairs of flip-flops, gladiator sandals, 2 pairs of sneakers)

• 1 set of pajamas

• 1 hat

• An assortment of jewelry

• 2 bags (1 beach bag and one everyday/evening bag)

• 2 belts

• 1 scarf

This is what I changed into right after getting off the flight: Banana Republic linen shirt (available in a wide range of colors), a lightweight linen sweater (I’d recommend sizing down), and swim trunks.

Summer is usually the season of the straw hat, which I fully endorse, but have you considered the bucket hat? I only brought this one with me on the trip, so you’ll be seeing a lot of it in today’s letter. And while we’re on the topic of repetition, linen is going to be a recurring theme.

This is post–cold beach dip me. Same sweater, I wore the swim trunks over my CDLP speedo. These are my flip flops, and here’s a solid alternative. Same goes for the sunglasses—these are mine, and here’s a good option if you're looking for something similar.

Embroidered linen resort shirt, mid-rise kick flare linen pants with lace trim, Renata Q. necklace (though if you want something a bit more subtle, I’d go with this). Jamie Haller gladiator sandals, though something like this would’ve been a more practical choice.

Here’s the back of the look!

The hat returns. Cotton-linen blend suit jacket, same pants, though I think these would work just as well here. The scarf is vintage Armani—try something like this or maybe even this.

I’ve been on a big bodysuit kick. This one is cut pretty high, so you’ll either want to pair it with something more high-waisted or let a bit of skin peek out if that’s your thing. The top turquoise necklace is this one, and the bottom one is this one with this piece and this piece attached. My bag is Strathberry, and it was the only evening bag I brought on the trip.

I only brought open-toe shoes on this trip, except for a pair of Sperrys, which came in handy when it rained. These are Ancient Greek Sandals, but these are also a pair I reach for often.

Same linen sweater as before, layered over a linen henley. High-rise pleated cotton poplin cropped pants, a cotton-linen cable-knit sweater tied at the waist, and Sperry CVO deck shoes.

Say cheese!!!

What I did:

June 12

To get to the island, you have two options: take a ferry or fly. For this particular trip, I got to experience both. Originally, Nick and I were supposed to leave on the 11th, since I wanted to avoid traveling on my actual birthday, but I had to stay back an extra day for a project. Nick went ahead and flew in the next day on a Cape Air propeller plane.

As soon as I landed, the first thing I wanted to do was go to the beach. So Nick picked me up, we dropped our things at our sweet little inn, Lambert’s Cove, did a quick change, and headed to Lambert’s Cove Beach, which was just up the road. I think during the height of the season, the beach is only accessible with a pass, but guests of the inn automatically get one.

I actually discovered the inn last year when I was hoping to make a trip out, and when it came time to book something this year, it was my first choice. It’s in West Tisbury and used to be a working farm. There are alpacas just a stone’s throw from the pool, including the sweetest chocolate brown one named Toast. The property has this even tone of calm to it, with a garden full of lavender and hydrangeas. To even get there, you drive down a narrow, tree-lined road that eventually opens to a clearing where the house sits. Breakfast is included, and it was great (the best granola I’ve ever had, though I forgot to ask for the recipe). There’s also a restaurant on-site, which I didn’t get to try, but Nick gave me a bite of his lobster salad tucked inside the most perfect brioche bun. I devoured it before we even got to the beach.

The beach itself was magic. The water was still cold, which is pretty typical for New England, but I braved it for a few quick dunks. After we had our fill, we went back to get ready for dinner at Beachroad. Afterwards, we stopped into a dive bar in Oak Bluffs called The Ritz Café. I was pretty wiped from traveling, so we just stayed for one beer and caught the end of a live set before heading back to the inn.

June 13

This was my only full day on the island, so the goal was to fit in as much as possible before heading out early the next morning to make it to a dinner in the Hamptons. Our first stop was the cliffs in Aquinnah. According to Wampanoag legend, a giant named Moshup lived in a den within the cliffs and would catch whales and hurl them against the rock, staining them red, before cooking them on an ever-burning fire. After taking in the view and admiring the lighthouse, which was under repair, we stopped by the little shops that line the path to the cliffs. I picked up a magnet, which has become a tradition for every new place we visit, and also grabbed a t-shirt.

From there, we made our way to Oak Bluffs to grab lunch at Mo’s Lunch. The sandwiches were huge (I ended up saving half of mine for the drive to the Hamptons). We found a picnic table in town and people-watched while seagulls hovered above, waiting for scraps. After lunch, we wandered over to the gingerbread cottages, which are these little houses painted in the most cheerful colors—grape purple, sky blue, cotton candy pink. They were originally part of a Methodist camp meeting movement in the mid-19th century. The cottages were built to mimic the tents members used to pitch during the gatherings. Nick and I walked from one street to the next, admiring each house and waving to the residents perched on their porches, casually watching the day go by.

Next, we went to Edgartown for an afternoon cocktail and more people-watching. The town is close to one of the beaches used in the opening sequence of Jaws, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. You could spot Jaws memorabilia scattered all across the island. After drinks, we went back to the inn, changed quickly (These Banana Republic drawstring pants were a lifesaver, especially since I forgot to pack more than one pair of casual pants.), and ended the night with bowling and fries.

June 14

Most of the day was spent traveling. We had an early ferry back to the mainland, then drove about two hours to New London, Connecticut to catch another ferry to Orient Point, New York. That ferry cut our trip from the Cape to the Hamptons by two hours, which was a godsend. I only found out about it the week before. It was one of those grey, rainy days where the water feels extra beautiful. There’s something about being out on the water, watching the waves crash while holding onto the railing in your raincoat of choice.

After we docked in Orient Point, it was another two hours or so to East Hampton, where we checked in at The Maidstone. I found out there that every bathroom in the inn has its own quirky detail, a leftover from previous owners. Ours had a diorama of a 1960s mod house that looked like it belonged in the TWA Hotel.

June 15

The final day of this stretch of travel started with breakfast at Doubles. I ordered a breakfast roti with mango chutney that was absolutely mind-boggling. Nick and I both agreed it should be renamed the Hangover Cure because it was the perfect combination of everything you crave after an overindulgent night. After breakfast, we made a quick stop at Loaves and Fishes, where Nick was basically a kid in a candy store. We stocked up on goodies, including two types of bread: a baguette and a Chardonnay sourdough loaf.

That’s all for now. See you Wednesday.

XX

JJ

Photos shot by Nick Mandella on iPhone.

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