Before diving into today’s letter, I have a few housekeeping notes:
The 14K gold ring and earrings from my collection with At Present are back in stock!
I am going live today with
at 6 PM EST. We will be recapping the highlights (and let downs) of the season! If you have any questions, feel free to leave them in the comments or send me a DM. We'll have a 45-minute conversation, followed by a 15-minute Q&A session.I've also been updating all my curated lists, including my fall wishlist and my beauty/skincare favorites, so be sure to check them out!
Alright, that’s it for the logistics—on to today’s letter!
As another season draws to a close, I always find myself with the same thought: 'I wish I could wear that now!' The great thing about living in 2024 is that you don’t have to wait to embrace the latest styles. You can easily draw inspiration from the runway and incorporate it into your own wardrobe. Just like I did at the end of FW24, I’m here to show you how to bring those fresh-off-the-runway looks into your closet right now.
Miu Miu- two tanks + a sweater
Much like Prada, the Miu Miu collection seemed to grapple with the concept of individuality in the digital age. Or, as one essay accessed via a QR code on the front of a newspaper placed on guests' seats put it, the idea of “endcore.” In the essay, writer Shuman Basar describes it as “a widespread feeling that things we once considered unchangeable, fundamental facts are now ending... We feel like the end is approaching, like an asteroid hurtling towards us; yet it strangely never arrives. So we keep waiting.” Although Miuccia Prada denied a direct connection between the collection and the essays, it was hard not to see the collection as a proposition on how to dress while waiting for this looming uncertainty: swim maillots paired with pleated leather skirts and multiple belts, strong-shouldered coats in austere '70s prints styled with suede bags and sneakers, and the look I drew inspiration from—a layered combination of two tanks, cinched together with a sweater.
For my interpretation, I took a few liberties. Since I don't own any thin-strap tanks or camis, I opted for my regular tanks instead. When layering, I believe the tank closest to your body should be the tightest, with the second one being a bit looser. As for the sweater—or in my case, a cardigan—worn as a belt/corset, I recommend choosing something lightweight. If the sweater is too bulky, it defeats the purpose, as it’s meant to function almost like a corset.
Valentino- ruffles + suiting
The most highly anticipated debut of the season was Alessandro Michele’s collection for Valentino, and it’s safe to say it sparked a lot of mixed reactions. Even I’ve been going back and forth on how I feel about it. One thing I’m certain of, though, is that Valentino delivered some of the best shoes and bags this season. Regardless of how you feel about the collection as a whole, you have to admit—it’s refreshing to see something bold and exciting, a departure from yet another take on “quiet luxury.”
Thanks in part to Chemena Kamali’s debut collection at Chloé, there is no shortage of ruffles in the market, and they’re available at every price point (Patou, Doen, Cos). I wore a similar look in Paris, but there I styled the ruffled top under a peaked lapel velvet jacket. While it looked nice from the front, the ruffles in the back were unfortunately bunched up. I’ve since realized that the best type of jacket to pair with a ruffled collar is a collarless one, which allows the ruffles to lay flat (mine is vintage YSL, but Kallmeyer also makes a great option). Instead of black pants like the runway look, I chose these satin off-white Toteme trousers to complement the ruffled shirt. Alessandro’s philosophy of 'more is more' gave me the confidence to layer on all the accessories: pearls, sheer gloves, pointelle socks, statement earrings, and a bright blue beanie (which I found in The Row’s children’s section).
Rabanne- t-shirt + button down + hooded Jacket + leather jacket
The layering concept from Rabanne was simply too good to pass up. The runway showcased several variations of this style, with multiple pieces layered under jackets or coats. The key to pulling this off successfully is using thin layers to avoid adding too much bulk.
Co- cargos + boots
There was a pragmatic elegance to the recent Co collection, perfectly mirroring the essence of what I was trying to capture with the “wrong jacket theory.” In her review for Vogue, Stephanie Danan spoke about juggling a move, market demands, and motherhood, and you can see this reflected in the collection—models in hurried motion, some carrying multiple bags, as if caught in a rush. Danan is also balancing the two cultures she grew up in: is she 'a chic Parisian' or 'a practical American sportswear kind of person'? This dichotomy is evident in her designs, where utilitarian pieces are reimagined in luxurious fabrics like silks like satins and semi-sheer cottons, and canvas coats that morph into elegant capes.
The look I enjoyed the most gave me a fresh way to style my cargo pants—tucked into boots, almost as if I were on safari. In the lookbook, the boots appear to be more calf-length, and instead of tucking the cargos in, it seems they were either cinched to hit just where the boots end or cut to that length. I took a few liberties myself, adding an extra jacket over my field shirt to create more volume. The key to nailing this look is pairing an elevated, more refined top —whether through the material or cut (like this and this)—with something more casual, like a vintage field shirt. This contrast between elegance and practicality is exactly the kind of tension Danan was exploring.
Dries Van Noten- elegant coat + athletic shorts
This was the first collection without Dries Van Noten at the helm, and I must say, the creative team truly honored his legacy. Once again, it was a masterclass in clashing colors, bold prints, and playful proportions. Lately, there's been a noticeable sporty element at Dries (and arguably throughout the entire season), and much like the Co collection, there's a distinct play on dichotomies—where sporty meets elegant. On the runway, the coats and jackets leaned heavily toward brocade, but believe it or not, I don’t have a single brocade piece in my wardrobe. So, I opted for this satin coat from Tory Burch instead. Luckily, there are plenty of options out there (1, 2, 3).
The Row- short sleeve shirt + t-shirt dress
Polo Ralph Lauren- quarter zip sweater + oxford + sweatpants
Though not a Parisian brand, Polo Ralph Lauren released its lookbook during PFW, and the collection featured so many irresistible looks that it deserves a mention. What Ralph Lauren consistently excels at is crafting a story that draws you in and makes you want to be a part of it. This collection, much like the brand itself, is a study in Americana. While the Ralph Lauren line was set in the Hamptons and felt like an exploration of that lifestyle, this one leaned more toward a Cape Cod vibe, with its abundance of straw hats and baskets. The mixing of washed denim with an oxford shirt and tie, or a patchwork jacket, gave it a nostalgic charm. Similarly, aged Hawaiian floral board shorts were paired with a naval blazer, and sweatpants were elevated with the addition of a heavy sweater and shirt, creating an effortless yet refined take on casual wear.
Like in the lookbook, I layered a quarter zip over a button-down and cinched everything in with a shirt. Where I deviated, though, was in the style of sweatpants. The lookbook featured a more tapered, cinched-bottom style, but I opted for these barrel-leg Cos sweats that I’ve been living in since returning from Paris. One thing to note about these pants, and barrel-leg styles in general, is that sizing up can help soften the curve. Barrel-leg pants have been the topic du jour in denim lately, but they can veer into comical territory because of the pronounced shape. By sizing up, you can still keep that distinct curvature, but with a more subtle, softer effect.
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True delight. You got to the most important essence of each look and made them fodder for our own personal explorations! A barrel leg tip to boot! I die for you in the purple athletic shorts and celadon silk. XO.
You're the absolute coolest, and I'm dying over those Tory Burch pierced heels.