The "Wrong Jacket" Theory
The "Wrong Jacket" Theory
Maybe all you need to jazz up a look is throwing on the "wrong jacket"
This sentiment may border on naivety, but I’m feeling undeniably optimistic, and it’s likely influencing my perception of the collections—even the bad ones. While there’s no denying that the future can appear bleak at times, and even in fashion, things can start to feel repetitive—rehashed ideas, half-formed concepts, or no real innovation at all—it’s easy to fall into the alluring trap of pessimism. Yet, to linger too long in that mindset would be to overlook the endless possibilities, much like pairing the “wrong jacket” with your look.
I’m certainly not the first to highlight this concept. Last year, British Vogue drew attention to it, and more recently, José Criales-Unzueta penned an article celebrating the trend of cocktail dresses worn beneath parkas. This idea gained traction after several designers, starting with Burberry, followed by No. 21, Prada, and The Attico, sent their own interpretations down the runway. As José put it, these looks embody a style that’s “very New York, very ‘I took the subway here.’” Personally, I’ve long been mixing evening wear with more casual pieces, as have other designers. In his article and on Instagram, José provides a range of examples, from Raf Simons' Jil Sander to Dries Van Noten’s collaboration with Lacroix, illustrating this seamless fusion of two seemingly opposing worlds. And as José illustrated later in the article, there is something about blending the worlds of pragmatism and frivolity to create something more “real.”
And with Milan Fashion Week officially behind us and everyone (myself included!) heading to Paris, I felt inspired to dedicate today’s letter to this theme that’s captivating the runways—and sparking my own creativity!
The “Wrong Jacket” Theory
Before we dive into the idea of the “wrong jacket or coat” theory, we should first discuss
’s “wrong shoe theory,” a term she coined on TikTok. As she explained in a Glamour article, there isn’t really such a thing as a “wrong shoe” per se; it’s more about going against your initial instincts. Take, for example, this Fforme maxi dress with a fluted bottom. The natural choice would be something akin to an opera coat or a swing coat, which would be fine but maybe not as interesting. By adding a hooded canvas trench instead—similar to Allison’s idea of the “wrong shoe”—you create tension in the look by juxtaposing elements of evening wear with casual wear. What makes this outfit work is that I didn’t fully abandon the idea of evening wear—you still see hints of it in the shoes and accessories. But that doesn’t mean the look has to be 75% evening and 25% casual to succeed. As I show with the next look, you can strike a perfect balance between the two worlds and still achieve that "I’m taking the subway, but I need to look fabulous" feel.
The first pair of Sperrys I ever bought were white Classic CVO sneakers, a favorite of Paul Newman, just before Nick and I took our usual trip to Cape Cod a few years ago. I loved them so much, I wore them almost the entire trip and well into the fall. While canvas sneakers are typically considered spring and summer staples, I believe they can transition effortlessly into colder months with the addition of socks and a heavier jacket. What I particularly love about these shoes (you can see me wearing them in a few of my letters here and here) is their slim profile. A slim shoe adds a sleekness to any outfit, and in the fall, I often gravitate toward shoes like these to tone down more formal looks.
For this particular look, I’m not only playing with the idea of the “wrong jacket” by pairing a vintage Sperry waxed jacket with a dressier Zankov knit set, but I’m also embracing Allison Bornstein’s “Wrong Shoe” theory—the idea that choosing a more unconventional shoe adds depth and texture to an outfit. In this case, opting for Sperrys instead of heels again creates a unique, stylish contrast.
There’s no denying that this styling cue—much like transitional dressing outfits —relies on a certain editorial mindset. As I mentioned in that particular letter, this in-between season is the perfect time to experiment with these ideas. In all seriousness, this is one of the few moments when you can realistically wear cashmere with open-toe shoes and totally pull it off. (It’s also the ideal time to break out those hand towels you might have picked up, à la The Row.)
In that same vein of editorialized styling, I’ve been reflecting on the remarkable fashion photography of the 1950s and '60s, captured by legends like Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, and Cecil Beaton. What I love about those images is that they don’t just showcase the creations of some of the most influential designers of the time—Cristóbal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain, and many more—but also the way the models inhabit the clothes. There's an almost cinematic quality to the way they drape themselves in coats or evening shawls, stretch their necks to emphasize a collar, or simply extend a leg or point a toe.
Yes, it’s about the clothes—Dovima with Elephants wouldn’t be iconic without that sleek Dior dress—but ultimately, it’s the gesture that brings it all to life.
Over the past few seasons, I’ve noticed the words “gesture” and “couture” surfacing more and more, often used together to describe a single collection. The emphasis on gesture seems to have surged in parallel with the rise of "quiet luxury," as both designers and consumers began to recognize that the way you wear a coat or carry a bag (or even multiple bags) can communicate something just as powerful as the garments themselves.
As for “couture,” I can’t pinpoint exactly which season it started cropping up more frequently in conversations about ready-to-wear, but it’s undeniable that designers are increasingly drawing inspiration from the old masters in terms of silhouette and fabrication. The idea of bringing elements of couture into everyday fashion is fascinating. Just look at Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele’s cover for Anna Wintour’s first Vogue—it’s proof that blending the worlds of couture and the everyday can produce a truly memorable image.
Most recently, Sabato de Sarno used the term to describe what I’ve dubbed his “Swiffer coats,” the he paired with denim. Perhaps in a time fraught with war, economic challenges, and political unrest, adding a touch of frothiness to life—like a satin coat—feels not only luxurious but rebellious.
Just as pairing casual outerwear with evening wear creates a certain tension, the same applies when you reverse the roles by pairing an evening coat with casual or, in this case, sportswear. Beyond the idea of blending categories, I noticed a distinct focus on sportswear during NYFW. However, this season’s approach didn’t, in my view, veer too far into the realm of “athleisure.” Designers like Tory Burch, for example, managed to draw from sports motifs and sensibilities, refining them into easy, wearable pieces without losing their elegance.
For this particular look, I was inspired by the color combination: the soft pistachio green of the coat (if you’re looking for something similar, I’d suggest looking up satin opera coats in green) paired with the bright yellow of the Relax Lacrosse track pants. Like in my first look from this newsletter, I didn’t want to abandon formality entirely—a recurring theme for me—so I chose to style the outfit with chocolate brown Polo Ralph Lauren loafers. While the color pairing might initially seem a bit disjointed, I knew that individually, the yellow and brown complemented the green coat. So when combined, they worked harmoniously.
To maintain a touch of elegance, I decided to have some fun with jewelry, starting with my Prehnite Don’t Let Disco necklace, along with a few other playful pieces that are debuting this week. :)
I have to admit, this outfit wasn’t entirely my own creation. If you’ve been following my NYFW diary, you’ll know that a lovely woman helped me choose these Still Here jeans. She also gave me some styling advice, suggesting I pair them with a blazer and heels. She recommended a black t-shirt under the blazer, which I agree would look great, but I personally love the way a white shirt contrasts with camo. To me, a white shirt brings an effortless, casual allure that elevates anything you pair with it.
As I mentioned in Friday’s letter, I’ve suddenly developed a strong affection for brogues—an unexpected shift, considering I used to find them rather unattractive. Now, I find them incredibly delicious. Perhaps brogues are the natural evolution from the boat shoe craze? While browsing, I came across a pair from Victoria Beckham with a sharp, exaggerated point, styled with jeans on the site, and I thought the combination was absolutely delicious. Just before I hit "purchase," I remembered Nick has a pair from Thom Browne (though I still might get the Victoria Beckham pair because they’re so different!). Much like trying on a formal coat or jacket—in this case, one from Marei1998—adding a more structured shoe can really elevate the entire look.
Or you could turn your jacket into a cape.
The Rain Jacket/Coat
Before we wrap up, I wanted to mention a specific piece of outerwear that seems to be having a moment this season—the rain jacket/coat/anorak/parka. A few months ago, I was out with friends, and as usual, the conversation drifted towards shopping—more specifically, the challenges of shopping these days. While I never lose enthusiasm for it, my friends were talking about how they haven’t really felt the urge to shop lately—except when it comes to raincoats. I found this interesting, because I too had recently felt a sudden need for a new one. In terms of "newness" on the runway, rain gear seems to be a strong influence, and even when outerwear isn't explicitly rain-related, it often nods to styles from the late ’60s.
Talk to you all soon!
XX
JJ
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…oh yes what you said about dovima was right on ! yes this idea of posing , the sense of gesture , for me this brought to attention my appreciation for you ,
cause you can pose, what a pleasure ,
there is something to grace , what a pleasure it is to see it in the curl of your hand , the position of your feet , you have the gestures of a classical mannequin in a sense , you are graceful because you are serving the clothes , delighting in them , wonderful work keep it up ,
I’ve been debating the barn jackets available this fall but for me they felt like I was playing dress up. So chic on others, but inauthentic on me. I thought — maybe a light anorak? So right before I read this I purchased a Margaret Howell anorak. It’s like you wrote this newsletter for me — so much styling inspiration!