CONSIDER YOURSELF A SHOPPER # 20: THE STREAM OF CONSCIOUSNESS EDITION
This week's letter starts with a moody 80s soundtrack, followed by discussions about Dries, and then we find ourselves contemplating cargo shorts. How did we get there? MY STREAM OF CONSCIOUSNESS!!!
While I was mulling over my taxes, I stumbled upon this Spotify-generated playlist called “Moody 80s." (Rather than share the whole playlist, I’ll just highlight the songs I enjoyed the most: "Listen” by Tears For Fears, “Haunt Me” by Sade, and “Last Night I Dreamt That Somebody Loved Me” by The Smiths.) Interestingly, I found that the melancholic tone of the playlist not only served as the perfect soundtrack to the grueling task of tax filing, but also it feels like the perfect score to this week in fashion.
Matchesfashion is shuttering which is terribly devastating for the people who have just lost their jobs and the brands that will be damaged by this. Additionally, two designers, Pier Paolo Piccioli of Valentino and Dries Van Noten, have decided to step down. Both departures were very much unexpected; however, I will admit that after Pier Paolo’s all-black F/W 24 collection, I was anticipating a change. Ever since Marc Jacobs sent down all-black looks for his final collection for Louis Vuitton, it has been ingrained in me that such a collection often marks a designer's swan song.
I won't delve into lengthy eulogies for these designers, as I'm sure you've already encountered numerous pieces praising their work. Anything I'd say might feel like I am echoing what's already been expressed. Instead, I want to talk about this Joan Didion essay called Goodbye to All That.
When news of Dries' departure started circulating, it immediately brought to mind this poignant piece about Didion’s disillusionment with New York City, and her urgent longing to break free from its grip.
And even that late in the game I still liked going to parties, all parties, bad parties, Saturday-afternoon parties given by recently married couples who lived in Stuyvesant Town, West Side parties given by unpublished or failed writers who served cheap red wine and talked about going to Guatalajara, Village parties where all the guests worked for advertising agencies and voted for Reform Democrats, press parties at Sardi’s, the worst kind of parties. You will have perceived by now that I was not one to profit by the experience of others, that it was a very long time indeed before I stopped believing in new faces and began to understand the lesson in that story, which was that it is distinctly possible to stay too long at the Fair.
While I have a deep affection for New York, I understand that it may not be my forever home. There will come a time when the excitement fades, and the same feels true for Dries and Pier Paolo. Their contributions to the world of beauty and taste are undeniable, yet by them stepping down at their prime they also have taught us the importance of recognizing when it's time to say, “I’ve had a good run, but it’s time to leave the fair.”
(To help with the Dries hunt, I have put together an edit that I plan on updating regularly.)
Shifting gears, recently, I made a bold move - I deleted all of my shopping apps. You may have heard about my recent therapy session with
over on Neverworns.. After that enlightening conversation and going through two moves (yes, you read that correctly - twice, but that's a story for another time), I've come to grips with the reality of my overflowing closet. Sometimes, I find myself wearing certain items only once, not just for a quick photo op, but because my wardrobe is bursting at the seams, making it difficult to even see everything I own. Therefore, I've taken on somewhat of a self-imposed shopping freeze; or let’s say I am trying to be a more discerning shopper.I must admit, ditching those shopping apps has been a breath of fresh air. I recently confided in Liana about how liberating it feels, and the purchases I've made since have all been carefully considered (excluding a Cos dress that caught my eye via an Instagram ad - those ads finally got me!).
One such purchase was a pair of almond toe pumps in this striking radioactive mint green . I'd been on the hunt for this shape of shoe, ever since The Row came out with this pump; however, instead of forking over the money for these shoes, I have been hunting for a similar shoe in my size (which is an EU41 or EU42). Jenny Walton penned an insightful piece on this particular shoe style; furthermore she offers great banter about the allure of the style and helpful search terms and brands that can make the search easier (I'd personally add Charles Jourdan and Bruno Magli to her list!). The shoes I ultimately purchased were uncovered by searching "VTG almond toe pump 11." I've found that including your shoe size in the search can work wonders in two ways: streamlining the hunt by focusing solely on styles available in your size, and uncovering hidden gems that don't necessarily align with your initial search term but end up being exactly what you're after. The options are endless, like this one here, or perhaps this one, or even this one if you're keen on channeling your inner Holly Golightly!
Another recent acquisition was a pair of overalls, that I found upon using the search term "Sears hickory striped overalls." I'd been wanting a pair ever since the onset of the 90s nostalgia wave circa 2015/2016. Strangely, despite this persistent desire, I never quite took the plunge and made the purchase. Fast forward to the present, and a vintage denim story by the stylist extraordinaire and dear reader Brandon Tan transported me back to 2016 when my heart longed for nothing more than clear skin and a pair of overalls.
Brandon truly excelled in styling all the denim pieces, but what captured my heart in this overall look was, firstly, the pose. It is so reminiscence of those great fashion pictures from the 50s/60s and it truly elevates the overalls . Secondly, it's the clever juxtaposition of elements: the luxurious sweater paired with the suede topper, and the loafers (loafers with overalls genius!!!!) . There's an inherent ruggedness to overalls, and toning it down with these soft layers added an extra touch of sophistication.
Choosing the right layers to wear beneath the overalls posed a bit of a challenge for me. Considering I planned to wear them to the office, I wanted a “work appropriate look.” I did not want to roll up to the office looking as if I had started the morning milking cows. Since I couldn’t keep my coat on all day, it as crucial for the layers underneath to strike a balance. In the end, I settled on a J.Crew henley that I paired with a grey CDLP shirt, and I draped my sweater around my neck for an added touch of refinement similar to Brandon. But what truly take the ensemble to the next level was the leopard coat.
I have been on a leopard print kick- call it the Mrs. Robinson effect, or perhaps I should dub it the Laurel Pantin effect!
Dear reader, every time I see this print, I begin to foam at the mouth: leopard print Grecian slippers in the same style that Paul Bowles wore - I need these on my feet immediately. A CDLP leopard print speedo to match the leopard print trunks I just acquired, and if circumstances permitted, I'd invest in a few chairs upholstered in leopard print fabric à la Gabby Katz’s office.
Alas, I am not in the position to acquire furniture with all of my moving, so maybe this Slip sleep mask can feel the void of not owing those chairs.
On the topic of sleep masks, dear reader I am utterly obsessed. It is no secret that many of us have indulged in the dreams of owing this sleep mask a la Holly Golightly Breakfast at Tiffany’s. It is also no secret that sleep mask can be somewhat of a challenge- well at least they have been a challenge for me.
Before bidding farewell to my shopping apps (which shall now be referred to as B.D. - before deletion), my nightly ritual often involved scrolling through various platforms, adding items to my wishlists, or even succumbing to impulsive midnight purchases. However, attempts to sleep with a mask B.D. only resulted in a restless mind, prompting me to hastily remove the mask and resume browsing. Since entering the A.D. era (after deletion), reclaiming my time from these apps has been liberating. No longer do I feel the incessant need to refresh wishlists or going down a rabbit hole on the best bucket hats for summer (Lauren Manoogian, The Row, Stoffa, to name a few). Now, slipping on the sleep mask feels akin to drawing the curtains at the end of a captivating performance - signaling the transition to a peaceful retreat into the realm of dreams.
Before we wrap up this week's letter, there are two more topics that demand our attention: cargo shorts and tennis necklaces. While they may not be directly related, both hold significant importance.
Last summer, I embarked on a mission to find the perfect pair of cargo shorts, only to encounter disappointment. Despite my efforts - which involved purchasing, cutting, and hemming a pair of Chaps chino shorts - none of the alterations seemed to enhance their appeal. It dawned on me that the issue wasn't with the length or fit, but rather with the lack of what I truly desired: bold, obnoxious pockets. I longed for cargo shorts with pockets large enough to hold my computer, or perhaps even small pockets designed specifically for tactical gear.
The shorts currently catching my eye are options from the new Uniqlo U spring collection, available in understated grey or beige. Additionally, a printed cut-off pair from Dries Van Noten, has piqued my interest, as has a surprisingly luxe version from Brunello Cucinelli- because who can resist Italian craftsmanship for under $200?
As for the tennis necklace, I've been yearning to add some variety to my necklace situation. While I adore my current assortment of accessories, there are moments when I crave something new and fresh. Here are the three styles I'm currently deliberating between:
I vehemently disagree with Holly Golightly's (I guess she has really been on my mind lately?) notion that diamonds are reserved for those over the age of 40. In my opinion, DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER!!!
Next week will be the monthly behind-the-paywall post. To ensure you don't miss out on any exclusive content, be sure to upgrade your subscription. Prepare for another captivating round of Cultural Recommendations, where I've reached out to some truly remarkable tastemakers to share their spring/summer moodboards and shopping lists. Trust me, you won’t want to miss this!
Until next time!
XX
JJ
Grateful as always for your eye, style, writing. And your overalls fit! (!!!!) So good now I may need some. And I have these Margiela cargo shorts - the pockets are different, but the vibe may be to your liking (sorry for the long link): https://www.farfetch.com/shopping/women/maison-margiela-belted-waist-cotton-shorts-item-17754892.aspx?lang=en-US&fsb=1&size=23&storeid=13161&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_keywordid=119356173&utm_shoppingproductid=17754892-23&pid=google_search&af_channel=Search&c=2069920048&af_c_id=2069920048&af_siteid=&af_keywords=pla-297226412859&af_adset_id=75217627374&af_ad_id=204345266599&af_sub1=119356173&af_sub5=17754892-23&is_retargeting=true&shopping=yes&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwYSwBhDcARIsAOyL0fhGyf3t7jWUxju3EHgjM90ecWY_E8N65hePA74T9kSavK5KzC90SQAaAhhpEALw_wcB